Ai-Petri

Ai-Petri mountain is a white limestone sentinel (actually the remains of a onetime coral bed beneath the Black Sea) towering over the surrounding countryside and town of Alupka at an elevation of 1,234 meters. That’s nearly 4,000 feet, and while 4,000 feet elevation may not sound all that impressive, what makes it memorable is how Ai-Petri rises to this height directly from sea level in a very abrupt manner. Taking the cable car ride to the top will prove this to you in short order, though I have to warn you this is not a trek for the faint of heart.

All I could think of as the gondola soared skyward was “I sure hope the cable has been inspected occasionally since the end of the Soviet Union and doesn’t snap like a dry twig when we’re halfway up and send us plummeting onto the jagged rocks below.” But it’s hard not to have such thoughts when you’re riding up the sheer face of this mountain that looms above you. On the other hand, if you can relax and put thoughts of imminent doom out of mind, the view is breathtaking and the ride is fun in a scary amusement park kind of way. I can’t even say for sure how long the ride lasts as one tends to lose track of time when your life passes before your eyes in a blur. Probably more than five and less than ten minutes.

Start of tram ride, Ai-Petri looming above

(Start of tram ride, Ai-Petri looming above)

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Swallows Nest

Traveling a few miles farther west of Livadiya will bring you to the Swallows Nest castle, one of the truly iconic and most ubiquitous images of all Crimea. You see it’s likeness on everything: keychains, coffee cups, combs and hairbrushes, shot glasses, wine glasses, beer steins, t-shirts, if you can screen the image on something, the Swallows Nest is on there. When you pay a visit, it’s not hard to see why.

Overlooking the Cape of Ai-Todor and perched dramatically forty meters straight above the Black Sea atop the sheer Aurora Cliff, the Swallows Nest is actually best appreciated from some distance away. Ample photo opportunities can be found on the long walkway and staircases known as the Czars Path, which approaches the castle from the roadway above. It’s really the setting which makes the Swallows Nest such a magnet for tourists as the castle itself is a bit of a letdown when you get out to it. Built in a style I would describe as faux Cinderella/Sleeping Beauty/fairy tale, it’s actually quite small, measuring only 20 meters in length (66 feet) by 10 meters width (33 feet). The Swallows Nest was never intended for residence but rather constructed expressly as a tourist attraction and restaurant.

The Swallows Nest Castle

(The Swallows Nest Castle)

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Livadiya Palace

Leaving Yalta proper and heading southwest along the coast a few miles, you will soon come to Livadiya, home to Livadiya Palace, site of the world-famous Yalta Conference of February, 1945, when Stalin hosted Winston Churchill and Franklin D. Roosevelt near the end of World War II. But long before that, Livadiya was the summer residence of the Imperial family of the Russian Empire, the Romanov’s, Czar Nicholas II and his wife Alexandra and their five children.

Built between 1909 and 1911 under the guidance of Yalta’s preeminent architect, Nikolai Krasnov, Livadiya Palace is a stunning example of Neo-Renaissance architecture, it’s white Crimean granite gleaming like an alabaster jewel on a sun-kissed hillside overlooking the Black Sea. The estate had been in the royal family since the 1860’s with smaller palaces on the grounds used by Nicholas’ grandfather and father, Alexander II and III. Nicholas had grander ideas inspired by a trip to Italy and ordered the old buildings razed and the new one constructed, no expenses spared, naturally.

Livadiya Palace

(Livadiya Palace)

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